Carol's Culinary Cues March 2007

(c) Carol Fenster, Ph.D. - President, Savory Palate, Inc.

8174 South Holly St., #404, Centennial, CO  80122

800.741.5418

ISSN 14244


IN THIS ISSUE:


Gluten-Free Cooking Tips

Recently, I presented two sessions on gluten-free cooking. One session was part of the Gluten-Free Culinary lecture series and was a sold-out crowd. I teamed with Denver celebrity chef Matt Selby (shown in the photo with me and organizer Suzanne Bowland) to discuss the wide variety of gluten-free flours available to us. The other session was a cooking class at Whole Foods Market in Highlands Ranch. This information will be discussed in much greater length in my forthcoming book, 1000 Gluten-Free Recipes, to be published by Wiley in 2008. The highlights are presented in this issue of Carol's Culinary Cues.


Choose Flours Based on Their Primary Traits

I keep flour blends on hand because it is easier to measure a flour blend once, rather than measure each individual flour every time I bake. That means every so often I set aside a few minutes to mix up a batch of this flour blend in a large, air-tight storage container.

 use food storage containers from the Container Store that are stackable and use precious storage space very efficiently. Some of you use other containers; just be sure they are labeled as food-safe. 


The recipe for the flour blend I use is in Gluten-Free 101 and contains sorghum flour, potato starch, and tapioca.

Sorghum flour provides important protein and fiber. It is light and neutral flavored, so it doesn't compete with the flavors in your dish.

 

Potato starch lightens the blend so baked goods are airier and lighter. You could use the same amount of cornstarch, instead.

 

Tapioca flour produces "chew" and a nice outside crust which is important to the structure of baked goods.

 

Of course, I could choose other flours for this blend. Perhaps brown rice flour or bean flour or chestnut flour in place of the sorghum flour. Cornstarch or arrowroot could be used in place of the potato starch. I find that tapioca flour does the best job so I don't normally replace it. The important thing is to use a flour blend that you and your family like and if it isn't as high in protein or fiber or other important nutrients, you can jazz it up with additions (see below).


Add Fiber, Protein, Flavor, and Structure to Flour Blends

You can use my versatile blend in all type of baking, but sometimes you might want to add more protein, fiber, or flavor---or make the dough lighter so it will rise higher. I add these flours to the recipe when I'm mixing it (rather than mixing it into the flour blend), so I can control the type and amount of the addition at the actual time I'm making the dish..

 

 Potato Starch or Cornstarch: Replace 1 cup of the flour blend with 1 cup potato starch in yeast breads so they rise higher and lighter..

 

Fiber and Protein: Replace 1/4 cup of the flour blend in muffins with 1/4 cup of  almond flour, Montina flour, flax meal, rice bran, or teff flour for more fiber and/or protein. Start out with 1/4 cup and replace up to 1/2 cup as you get comfortable with this change.

 

Flavor: The flours above will also add flavor, but I like to replace 1/4 cup of the flour blend with mesquite flour, available from www.therubyrange.com or www.casadefruta.com. It adds a wonderful cinnamon-like flavor and works great in muffins and quick breads with banana, cinnamon, or apple flavors.

 

Expandex: For a better, more "normal"  texture in muffins, I often replace 1/4 cup of the flour blend with Expandex. To get more information about Expandex, a modified tapioca starch, and where to purchase it, go to www.expandexglutenfree.com.


 Use Additional Ingredients for Better Results

I consider these items as enhancers, since they improve our gluten-free baking.

 

 Xanthan gum or guar gum: You must use xanthan gum or guar gum in all baking because it replaces the function that gluten ordinarily performs. I even use it in pancakes for better structure and shape.

 

Soy lecithin: For a nicer texture, 1/4 to 1 teaspoon soy lecithin acts as a emulsifier by bringing the oil and water together in baked goods. It is especially useful when baking without eggs. You can use either granulated or liquid soy lecithin. My friend, Jean Duane who produces gluten-free DVD's at www.alternativecook.com, prefers the liquid variety because it produces a better texture. (More about Jean's marvelous DVD's next month.)

 

Nonfat dry milk powder (not Carnation):  Adds protein and sugar, which provides food for the yeast to rise in breads.

 

Acid: Vinegar and lemon juice boost the yeast's activity  for a higher rise in breads.

 

Unflavored Gelatin Powder: The two most common brands are Knox and Grayslake. Gelatin provides additional protein, moisture, and binding which is especially important  when baking without eggs or using dry, gritty flours such as rice flour..


Thickeners

Many flours can be used as thickeners, but my favorites are:

Cornstarch for puddings, Asian sauces, and dessert sauces (such as fruit) where it's acceptable for the sauce to be shiny and somewhat transparent.

 

Sweet rice flour for soups, gravies, and savory sauces. It is made from the same sticky rice that you eat in Chinese restaurants and those wonderful "sticky" qualities made a nice sauce. (By the way, sweet rice flour in pastry crusts improves the pliability.)

 

To learn more about all thickeners, see the charts in the Appendix of all my books that show how much of any thickener to use. I also have a bookmark, Baking with Wheat Substitutes (available on my web site) that shows how much thickener to use in place of wheat flour.


Gluten-Free Tortillas at Trader Joe's

Brown rice flour tortillas are now available at Trader Joe's, under the Trader Joe's label. They have a texture very similar to the tortillas from Food for Life. The best way to warm them is to place the tortilla on a bacon splatter screen over a skillet of simmering water. Cover with a lid for 10 or 15 seconds to steam the tortilla. It will be soft and pliable for a few minutes so you can fill it, roll it, whatever. If you have to soften several before filling them, place them between dampened tea towels for a few minutes. I use these tortillas in all the usual ways: fajitas, quesadillas, and soft tacos. I also like the new tortillas from La Tortilla Factory and order them from www.glutensolutions.com. They are softer and more pliable and, although they can be softened using the same steaming method, you can also put them between two wet paper towels and heat them on low in the microwave. 


Food for Thought

Job Description for Mom: "Innovative team player to lead unwieldy brood from infancy through adulthood and beyond. Candidate must exhibit enduring selflessness and ability to simultaneously manage dinner prep, tantrums, sibling scuffles, and relentless questions. F/T plus nights, weekend, holidays. No experience required.”---quoted from Body & Soul Magazine, page 111, May 2007 issue---you might want to read the entire article.


Where in the World is Carol?

In April, I am talking about the gluten-free diet with culinary professionals all over the world at the annual meeting of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP). The title is  "Catering to the Niches" and I think the food journalists, chefs, cookbook authors, and other culinary professionals will be interested to learn more about our gluten-free lifestyle. How we meet our dietary needs on a gluten-free diet is becoming increasingly popular around the world, as well. I'm invited to speak at a conference in Naples, Italy next September on using sorghum in food for celiac patients. .

 

For those who live in Denver: On May 19, I will conduct another gluten-free baking class at Whole Foods in Highlands Ranch, Colorado. Watch the store calendar for more information.

 

Also, on May 15 at 6:30 PM,  I am presenting a class on Breads at the Gluten-Free Culinary lecture series. Space is limited and will up fast, so register early at www.theglutenfreelifestyle.com