Carol's Culinary Cues - June, 2006

(c) Carol Fenster, Ph.D. - President, Savory Palate, Inc.

8174 South Holly St., #404, Centennial, CO  80122

800.741.5418

ISSN 14244


IN THIS ISSUE:


-Things I've Learned in the Kitchen Recently (And  Been Forced to Remember)

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.As many of you know, I'm busy writing a HUGE cookbook called 1000 Gluten-Free Recipes for John C. Wiley publishers. I'm very honored to be writing this cookbook, but don't rush to the bookstores just yet---it won't be published until 2008. For the next 9 months,  I'm practically living in my kitchen, testing and perfecting recipes I know you'll love.

 

 

Mini-Banana Breads

Here is what I've learned during the past few months:

• I use xanthan gum and guar gum interchangeably (1 1/2 times more guar gum for the same amount of xanthan gum) but I serendipitously found that using equal amounts of both is even better. For example, I use both in my pie crust which I've made even better for this new book. And, I use both in French bread. I don't know the chemical reason for this, but I certainly like the end result which is a smoother crust and better texture.

•  I've learned that these gums thicken the batter a few seconds into mixing and that's when the batter is mixed enough. No need to keep mixing for a specified amount of time. When you see the batter thicken slightly, you can stop mixing.

Break eggs into another container before adding them to the batter. In the last month, I found two eggs (yes, I broke them directly into the batter) that were bad and had to throw all the batter away. That's a terrific waste of time and ingredients and I certainly know better but, like many of us, I was in a hurry and looking for shortcuts. By the way, when I'm finished with this book I want to add up all the eggs I've used for this project. The total number will probably astound all of us!!!

• Use standard measuring cups and spoons, not spoons we eat soup with or measuring cups that were made for use in another country. For example, I bought a wonderful little glass measuring cup in Tokyo during one of my consulting trips and love its clean design that doesn't take up much space in my cupboard or dishwasher. But I tested its accuracy against my standard glass measuring (Pyrex) cup and found it's "off" by a few tablespoons, which is enough to affect my baking results.

• Speaking of measuring cups, measure oil or melted butter in a measuring cup first and then measure sticky ingredients such as honey or molasses in that same cup. The oil residue left in the cup makes any sticky ingredient slide right out, eliminating the need to coax it out with a spatula.

• Although I remain devoted to my nonstick (gray, not black) baking pans for breads, cakes, and pies I've learned that baking pans make a tremendous difference when baking cookies. Sometimes, the nonstick baking sheets cause cookies to brown much too quickly. And, the insulated pans don't brown the cookies very much at all. I've turned to my light gray (dull finish, not shiny) baking sheets. And, I always use parchment paper which eliminates the need to grease the baking sheet and the cookies never stick. Parchment paper can be used (both sides) several times before discarding, so it's not really a huge expense.

• I'm learning more and more about a new product called Expandex. It's a  modified tapioca starch that produces a more "normal" looking crumb in breads and muffins. By that I mean that the texture is not  heavy, dense, or cake-looking as many gluten-free breads and muffins are. I made mini-Cream Puffs for the Gluten Intolerance Group conference last month in Salt Lake City, UT by replacing 2 tablespoons of flour with it. I always use about 1/4 cup of it in my muffins for a crispier crust and a beautiful crumb. If you would like to experiment with this new ingredient, go to www.expandexglutenfree.com

• Gluten-free flours play different roles in baking. Protein flours such as sorghum, bean, Montina, etc. give our baked goods the necessary protein for good texture and structure. Starchy ingredients such as cornstarch or potato starch lighten and soften the texture of baked goods. Tapioca flour (sometimes called tapioca starch) gives baked goods a crispy crust and good mouth-feel, including a bit of "chew." But too much tapioca produces a rubbery texture and too much potato starch yields a texture that almost dissolves in your mouth (think Passover items made exclusively with potato starch).

• Sweet rice flour is becoming one of my pantry staples. I use it to thicken soups and gravies for an opaque, smooth texture that isn't grainy (like regular rice flour) or shiny and fake-looking (like arrowroot) or clear (like cornstarch). It also gives elasticity to pie crusts and tortillas, which is important so they don't break apart when rolling them out.

• Although I'm not a fan of deep-frying, I have several fried recipes in my new book. I realize that I've missed the extra crunchiness that frying lends to our foods. I've learned to use a heavy-duty deep saucepan where I can control the temperature of the oil myself or an electric deep-fat fryer that controls it for me. It appears that unless you want to spend lots of money for a fairly large fryer (that requires lots of oil but can fry many items at once which is important if you have a large family) you won't be able to adjust the temperature yourself. If that's very important to you, then opt for the bigger, more expensive unit. Otherwise, the smaller versions such as the Fry Daddy by Presto work just fine. Always be VERY careful around hot oil and keep kids and pets away while you're frying.


Where in the World is Carol?

No travel this month (in fact, no travel until my cooking classes at Bob's Red Mill in Portland, OR on September 13-14).

 

Although asked to be a speaker, I won't be at the Gluten-Free Culinary Summit on  August 26-28,  http://www.theglutenfreelifestyle.com/culinarysummit.html  But it looks like a fantastic line-up of chefs, so attend if you can.  It's in Copper Mountain, CO.

 

The reason I won't be there is that in addition to working on my new cookbook, I will be happily caring for my new granddaughter who is scheduled to arrive in August. She has dominated our lives for the past several months, causing my daughter-in-law to be on complete bed rest and deal with gestational diabetes. All in all, a difficult pregnancy, but one that doctors assure us will end in a healthy mom and baby. I can't wait to be a grandmother again!!